Trip Report and Photos by David Chavarria
Friday: arriving in Portland
Our Portland adventure began on a Friday. Some fortunate souls managed to escape London’s chaos early enough to enjoy dinner and a sunset over Chesil Beach. Others had to endure the infamous London peak traffic but wisely stopped for food, knowing full well that Portland’s culinary scene shuts down after 20:30.
As the evening progressed, we started gathering at Hotel Aqua. Perry and Joli, our Dive Managers, gave a well-structured briefing, complete with historical facts about the potential dive sites. The plan was simple: a full day on the boat with a dive in the morning and another in the afternoon.
Saturday: a wreck (for some), crab burgers and scallops
Saturday began bright and early with a 7:00 breakfast, featuring the usual “British tapas”: sausages, bacon, toast, and beans.
We headed off to the marina to fill the cylinders for the day and assemble our kit. As is customary, the first dive of the trip took longer to prepare.
Just as we were ready for the ropes off, disaster struck one of our members – a double drysuit failure. The neck seal came loose and the zip broke, unfortunately meaning no first dive for this person.
Our first dive was the wreck of Black Hawk’s bow section, an American ship torpedoed in 1944. The stern section broke off and sank off Portland Bill, while the bow was towed into Worbarrow Bay.
The wreck, lying at about 20 metres, was teeming with life – from large groups of pouting to a massive brown crab, and even some defiant tompot blennies. The visibility was better than average, considering my small sample size of UK dives. Some divers never managed to find the wreck, staying instead in the surrounding rocky area.
Post-dive, we headed to Lulworth Cove for lunch and to pick up our drysuit-challenged diver. Most club members enjoyed the local crab burger, and the scenery was simply stunning.
The second dive at Lulworth Banks was a drift dive over a sandy bed, full of scallops and filter-feeding life. Some divers were hypnotised by free-swimming scallops, while others looked for sponges and small critters. Gorgonians waved with the current and brittle stars formed tight groups to avoid being swept away. Some people saw a massive lobster out in the open and some claim to have seen a large tornback ray hiding in the sand.
After the dive, we tidied up Blue and headed to The Cove Inn for dinner. The pub, with its stunning views over Chesil Beach, was a perfect spot to recount the day’s adventures. At the end of the dinner, Perry briefed us about the next day of diving. Considering the great day we just had, our spirits and expectations were high.
The night ended with a visit to the (in)famous The Green Shutters pub, where we were met with great hospitality and high spirits – with local people dancing on top of a table.
Sunday: a wreck (for some) and a drift through kelp
Given the success of Saturday, the Dive Managers decided on a similar itinerary for Sunday: a morning dive, lunch at Lulworth Cove, and an afternoon dive.
The first dive was the wreck of the British Inventor, an oil tanker that struck a mine in 1940.
The shot line had to be repositioned after drifting. Two pairs were already in the water when we noticed it, with one choosing to do a drift dive over Lulworth Banks (again!). One diver in this pair was also part of the pair that couldn’t find the wreck of the Black Hawk, becoming the first person in the world to dive in Portland and not see a wreck!
After repositioning the shot line, the group successfully descended over the wreck. Despite being broken across the sea floor, the wreck served as an excellent artificial reef. There were large groups of pouting, conger eels, large crabs, and even a free-swimming plaice. The visibility wasn’t as good as the previous day, with a dark-greenish hue and less light seeping through. Regardless, this dive was one of the favourites of the weekend.
Post-dive, we had a quick lunch at Lulworth Cove, where we were greeted by a playful group of bottlenose dolphins.
The second dive was a drift through Bat’s Head reef, featuring steep gullies and swim-throughs. The kelp and light rays made for a stunning dive, even though the marine life was less abundant than in the wrecks. We still managed to see nudibranchs feasting on sea mat and juvenile fish, like wrasses and pouting, hiding between the crevices.
Wrapping up
After the final dive, it was time to pack up and head back to London. Tasks were divided, with some cleaning our dear Blue and others rinsing and packing the kit.
This trip, suitable for divers of all levels, was a great success. Perry did a stellar job planning every detail, and Joli’s wealth of experience was invaluable. Portland diving never disappoints, offering a plethora of options and interesting dives. All in all, it was a well-executed trip that left everyone eager for the next adventure.
