Report by Alessandro Marturano
In early June 2024, members of Clidive embarked on an extraordinary journey to the Shetland Islands, a place renowned for its rugged beauty and rich marine life. This liveaboard trip, meticulously organized by Matt Brown, brought together divers from different parts of the UK for a week of adventure and exploration. Our vessel for this journey was the Valhalla, a sturdy navy ship converted into a comfortable liveaboard, perfectly suited for the harsh conditions of the North Sea.
Getting There: The Journey Begins
Our adventure began with a long journey from various parts of the UK to Shetland. Some members took a lengthy train ride from London to Aberdeen, while others flew. From Aberdeen, we boarded a large, overnight ferry to Shetland. The weather was calm, and the crossing was smooth, setting a pleasant tone for the trip ahead. Upon arrival in Shetland, we met with the rest of the Clidivers and we were greeted by Hazel, the captain of the Valhalla, who transported us from the ferry to the boat in a van. The Valhalla, docked in Lerwick, our base for the trip, was to be our home for the week.
The Crew and Companions
Our group included Debbie, Matt, Alessandro, Nick, Marysya, Pranav, and a guest diver from another club named Doug. A solo rebreather diver named Ash joined us two days into the trip. The crew consisted of Hazel, our capable captain; Helen, the delightful boat mom who kept us well-fed and entertained with her stories; and Brandon, ex Mercedes F1 mechanic who expertly managed all our diving needs. The camaraderie among the divers and the crew was immediate and grew stronger with each passing day.
Diving Adventures: Unveiling the Underwater World
Our diving began with a check-out dive at the Fraoch Ban wreck, a fishing boat that capsized due to overloading. This dive helped everyone shake off the dust and get comfortable with their gear. The visibility was decent, and it was a great start to our underwater adventures.
Our second dive took us to Scorewall, a scenic site at 20 meters depth. The geological landscape with large boulders was teeming with sea life, including anemones, dead man’s finger coral, crabs, and sea hares. The beauty of this dive set the tone for the incredible underwater experiences that followed.
One of the highlights was visiting a massive rock colony of Gannets, seabirds that dive for fish. Watching these birds in their thousands was a mesmerizing experience, and a reminder of the sheer diversity of life in Shetland.
Exploring Shipwrecks: History Beneath the Waves
The second day brought us to the Gwladmena wreck, lying between 34 to 39 meters deep. This ship, sunk in 1918 after a collision with a Danish steamship, was a treasure trove of marine life. Feather stars, sea hares, and sea squirts were just a few of the creatures we encountered. That afternoon, we dove at the Samba, a former Royal Navy mine-sweeping trawler turned fuel carrier, now lying at 33 meters. Despite being battered by harsh conditions and an earthquake, the Samba offered an intriguing dive site.
A Day of Rest and Discovery
Unfortunately, high winds on the third day kept us from diving in the morning, giving us a chance to relax and enjoy the boat’s common area. We spent time identifying marine life from books, sharing stories, and exploring Lerwick. This charming town, with its late-opening shops and cafes, and pubs that stay open till 1 a.m., added a unique cultural flavour to our trip.
E49 Submarine: A Dive of Reverence
The afternoon saw us diving the Gwladmena again, before the much-anticipated dive at the E49 submarine on the fourth day. This First World War wreck, lying at 40 meters, is a poignant site, marking the final resting place of its crew. The dive was marked by excellent visibility and a wealth of marine life, including octopuses and ling. The wreck’s features, such as the periscope and deck gun, along with shifting sands that change the site annually, made this a dive to remember.
Northern Shetland: A Scenic Surprise
Docking in northern Shetland, we visited Baltasound, known for the UK’s northernmost pub and a famous bus stop. Playing pool at the pub, surrounded by Shetland ponies and sheep, added a light-hearted touch to our adventure. The long summer days meant we rarely saw a fully dark night sky, a unique experience for many of us.
Final Dives and Farewell
Our last 2 days of diving included a return to the E49, where familiarity with the site made for a smoother and more focused dive. We also explored Ramna Geo, a scenic dive at 23 meters featuring a kelp forest, sea scorpion, and vibrant anemones. The GlenIsla, a steam shipwreck at 44 meters, was our final dive. This wreck, with its exposed boilers and engine block, offered a fascinating glimpse into the past, complete with lobsters, crabs, starfish, and a humorous moment involving Nick unknowingly carrying a sea urchin on the back of his tank all the way to the safety stop.
A Week to Remember
The evenings were spent in friendly competition, like our Scrabble game, where team Doug and Alessandro emerged victorious. As the trip came to a close, we packed our gear and bid farewell to the crew and new friends. The Shetland trip was an adventure filled with incredible wildlife, historical wrecks, and the outstanding support of the Valhalla crew. It was a journey that fostered old friendships, created new ones, and left us with unforgettable memories.
This trip was a testament to the spirit of exploration and camaraderie that defines Clidive. We look forward to more adventures and underwater discoveries in the future.
